I am a strong believer in the phrase “Everything has a story to tell.” From an empty soda can to an exhausted tennis shoe lying on the side of the street, I believe that all objects are imbued with an inner narrative that weaves together a larger story about society as a whole. Archeologists are one of the largest advocates of this phrase, devoting their time to searching for objects that tell the story of the history of humankind. Of these objects, architectural features are excellent story tellers, speaking to the function for which they were created and the type of peoples that inhabited them.
Last week my classmates and I were fortunate enough to visit one of these cultural storytellers. Residing in one of the most populated parts of Venice, the Piazza San Marco, the clock tower is constantly on display to tourists and Venetians alike. With its brilliantly decorated façade, the tower is truly an architectural beauty; however, it is often overshadowed by other more imposing masterpieces such as the Basilica di San Marco, the towering Campanile, or the Doge’s Palace. Challenged by the immense size of its counterparts and less frequently the subject of tourist photographs, the tower elegantly decorates the square and although sometimes overlooked, has a beautiful story to share. The clocktower is an enigma, telling its story through the mouth of Venetians rather than in dusty textbooks. The tradition of the tower is strictly oral; therefore, a shroud of mystery surrounds the tower.
The façade of the tower is decorated with the magnificent clock that displays the time, phases of the sun and moon, and the zodiac. The tower was originally created to impress outside enemies and display the wealth and grandeur of Venice to those coming to the city by sea. The detailed information on the clock face was also helpful to sailors at sea, especially the information concerning the phases of the moon. When the clock sparkles with all gold, it indicates a full moon and high tide. This allows Venetians to prepare for high water and flooding in the city. On the other hand, when the clock is all blue it indicates a moonless night which consequently also causes high tide. When the clock face is half of each color, the tide is normal and the city is less prone to flooding. Therefore, the clock face is a crucial information point for the Venetians. The back façade of the tower faces a narrow calle and is more domestic in function. This personalized façade is not intended to impress, but rather to convey the time to the Venetian peoples as any clock is designed to do. The tower itself is a multi-functioning piece of the city, performing two distinct tasks to satisfy a wide array of peoples.
The tower’s main façade is one of decadence and display while its secondary façade is more personal and simple. This dual façade highlights a key characteristic of Venice. The city “dresses up” for visitors, lavishing herself in her jewels and best clothes. The city puts on a show and is in itself a spectacle, with its dramatic Carnivale masks, beautifully sculpted gondolas fluttering with an aura of romance, and elaborately decorated churches. However, the true Venice is one of simplicity and domesticity- a daily life (for the limited number of Venetians who still remain in the city) which centers on family and tradition. The true Venetian is not adorned in expensive gems and elegant attire, but instead a simpleton going about their daily life. The clock faces reflect these two identities- one of lavish display and the other of simple domesticity.
The clock tower also speaks to another central aspect of Venetian life- the focus on water. Although the tower is not exactly bordering the lagoon, it still has a direct relationship with water, as Venice as a whole continuously does. Water is at the heart of the city, serving as a center of exchange, transportation and recreation. Therefore, it is no surprise that this structure also relates to water, in that it predicts the tides and phases of the moon. Its relationship with the early Venetian sailors also connects the tower to the mercantile industry of the city
The digital clock above the main clock face was added later by the manager of the clock tower who added the feature because he supposedly hated the silence found in that particular section of the building. The man lived with his family in the tower and they called this odd place their home. I found it fascinating that a family could arrange their living quarters around the cramped and busy interior space. I cannot imagine having clock gears popping out of the floorboards of my living room or stepping over wires as I crawled into bed each night. However, the tradition of a man living in the tower to supervise the structure continued until 1998 and this way of life became the norm for the inhabitants of the tower.
The tower is a bit strange in that it is open and accessible with the naked eye, yet is truly a private space. Serving as a private residence throughout history, the tower was not open to the public. Although the tower now serves as a museum, the exclusivity of the space continues. Only a limited amount of visitors are allowed into the tower at time due to the tight quarters and visitors are also only granted a one hour visit because of “safety reasons.” Many only view the external features of the tower and do not explore the internal skeleton and inner workings of the structure.
The tower further serves as a panopticon, allowing one to view the main square and streets of Venice with a bird's eye view. However, the limited amount of windows and sheer small size of these features, along with the essentially closed-off façade, make it nearly impossible for outsiders to see the world within the tower. As I peered out of the tiny rounded windows from the top of the tower, I was overcome with a sense of invincibility and power as I stared upon the small figures below me who were ignorant to my gaze. Within the tower, one can watch the actions of those below in secrecy, and it caused me to wonder what life would have been like living in such a place. Did the inhabitants live a peculiar life of secrecy, or were they simply social beings who dwelled in an odd enigma?
The clock tower is also a heterotopia for the Venetian people. As discussed in class, a heterotopia serves as a mirror that helps a society better understand their culture. In a literal sense, a person can actually gaze out at the culture around them through the panoptic windows of the tower and through doing so better understand how their society functions. The tower is also a statement of the Venetian values and cultural ideals. The values of decadence and display are seen through the extravagant clock face, while the focus on tradition and domesticity is seen in the opposing facade. Through the clock tower the Venetians can see their society reflected in a tangible form.
As I ended my tour at the top of the tower, I looked down at the city below me and breathed in the salty sea air. I gazed down at the figures below me and the city stretched out beneath my feet. The tower had just told me its story, delighted me in its external splendor and internal complexity, and as I looked out into the city I thought of the other storytellers that Venice has to offer. I’m listening.
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